Exploring New Frontiers in Textile Recycling

According to the European Environment Agency (EEA), between 264 thousand and 594 thousand tonnes of textile products placed on the market in Europe (representing 4% to 9% of total volumes) are destroyed each year. Moreover, the substantial volumes of production offcuts, defective items, scraps from various production phases, and excess inventory that never reach consumer markets should be considered. 

 

Often, these materials are destined for landfills or energy recovery processes, yet they frequently end up abandoned in the environment or exported to poor regions, contributing to the proliferation of open-air landfills. To effectively tackle this issue, simply adhering to European norms and directives is insufficient. A more transformative approach is necessary - one that overhauls the production and consumption methods of textile products.

 

Circular economy is not (just) recycling. 

It is about preventing waste formation in the first place and extending the life of products so they can be discarded by consumers as late as possible. This does not mean that recycling isn't a fundamental practice for transforming end-of-life materials, giving new life to textile fibers, and reducing the consumption of virgin raw materials.

 

However, we know how difficult it is to recycle complex items and materials, made up of multiple fibers and possibly containing buttons, zippers, decorative elements, laminations, glitter, and more. We also know the limits of an industrial sector that - except for the Prato district and some valid companies - still lacks a sufficient number of facilities capable of handling the sorting, preparation, and recycling of textile waste. This is certainly a problem not to be underestimated and one that is limiting the applicability of the EU directive on the fashion transition towards circular models.

 

For this reason, it is necessary to encourage the activation of real initiatives that can show us the way. 

 

One such initiative is the Multi-Lab Multisectoral Experimental Laboratory launched by Centrocot at its headquarters in Busto Arsizio.

 

It is a spacious facility outfitted with instruments designed to test material behaviours in recycling processes, evaluate recyclability, and analyse the properties of the regenerated materials. This valuable information facilitates the reintroduction of materials into new value chains, not only in textiles but also in footwear, composites, packaging, construction, and more.

 

The facility established by Centrocot has quickly become a benchmark for companies looking to repurpose their production offcuts or integrate second-life materials into their products. This initiative exemplifies industrial symbiosis, enabling companies to create and share value through the smart management of waste materials. Multi-Lab serves not only as a center for analysis and testing but also as a support system for companies' ecodesign efforts and for promoting a culture of circular economy. Additionally, it functions as an interactive lab, frequented by both industry professionals and students from ITS and IFTS courses.

 

Recently, Centrocot has made its experience available for the Ecotess project launched in May 2024 and which will conclude in mid-2025. It is an initiative supported by the Chamber of Commerce and the Cariplo Foundation and participated in by public administrations, textile companies, business associations, and civil society. The goal: to experiment with the scalability of industrial symbiosis in a defined geographical area (the province of Varese).