Recycling mixed fabrics with elastomers

The Elastomer Revolution in the fashion business

The 1960s were a period of small and large revolutions, characterized by cultural and technological changes. In the field of fashion, it was not only floral scarves, jeans, and miniskirts that defined the era, but also the introduction of new materials like elastomers, which radically transformed the concept of clothing. These materials ushered in a new era of comfort and freedom of movement, becoming immediately popular. Today, it is almost impossible to imagine underwear, hosiery, sportswear, and even classic clothing without the elasticizing effect that ensures a perfect fit.

But what exactly is an elastomer? It is a synthetic fiber made up of at least 85% segmented polyurethane, endowed with extraordinary properties. An elastomer can stretch four to seven times its original size without breaking and can be blended with other textile fibers to improve the practicality of the garments in which it is used. The most well-known commercial brand name is Lycra®, often used improperly as a common name to refer to an elastomer.

 

Elastomers and the Challenge of the Circular Economy

The presence of elastomers in fabrics also presents significant problems, particularly when it comes to recycling. When subjected to treatments like fabric defibrillation or chemical dissolution of fibers, elastomers tend to stick to other fibers, damaging them, or break down into gummy formations that contaminate the recycled material. This often leads to the incineration or landfill disposal of fabrics containing elastane, seriously hindering the achievement of circular economy goals promoted by the European Union.

Solving this problem would be an extraordinary leap forward, considering the ubiquity of elastomers in many end-uses. For example, Next Technology Tecnotessile, a research company based in Prato, has developed a low environmental impact closed-cycle chemical process. This method allows for the recovery of both the fibrous component, which can be easily recycled, and the elastomer itself, making the recycling process more efficient. However, this solution has not yet been developed on an industrial scale.

In parallel, companies like RadiciGroup are investing in circular economy projects for the recycling of pre- and post-consumer textiles. For over 40 years, RadiciGroup has been recovering waste from nylon products and similar materials in the technopolymer sector, creating high-performance materials. Recently, the company has tackled the challenge of recycling mixed fabrics, developing a patent for the recovery of nylon containing less than 10% elastomer. Additionally, studies are underway to separate the fibers of mixed fabrics, maximizing performance and reducing environmental impact.

Beyond recycling existing elastomers, it is crucial to find alternative solutions that make this polymer more sustainable. A significant example is the American company Geno, which is working to replace butanediol, a chemical traditionally derived from fossil fuels and a key ingredient in the production of elastane, with biopolymers obtained from the fermentation of sugars derived from sugarcane. This innovation could make elastane more consistent with the decarbonization and sustainability goals of the fashion industry.

Innovation in recycling and the search for more sustainable materials are crucial steps towards a more ecological and responsible future for fashion. Only through collaboration between research, industry, and global policies will it be possible to overcome current challenges and build a truly sustainable textile sector.