THE RESULTS OF THE MU TENDENZE SOSTENIBILITA’ S/S 2026 PROJECT
Fabrics and accessories for the future of the planet
Creativity, quality and sustainability are now recognized as Milano Unica’s established and distinctive values. In the past 14 editions, Milano Unica has constantly dedicated space to the exhibitors who are most committed to pursuing them. More sustainability combined with more creativity is what you will find in the MU Tendenze Sostenibilità area.
The tags attached to the presentation of the samples on display graphically show the core values that inspire sustainability: the guarantee for the health of workers, consumers, and citizens that requires the elimination of hazardous chemicals; the focus on reducing the use of natural resources and the attention to the principles of circular economy. Last but not least, the promotion of social justice, combating climate change, and the protection of biodiversity.
In addition to these 5 core values, the tags provide information on 3 important company organization characteristics. Namely, the availability of a sustainable business management system; the availability of a product environmental footprint (PEF) declaration that complies with the methods specified by the European Commission to quantify the environmental impacts of products; and, last but not least, the availability of a supplier traceability system.
The Milano Unica’s MU Tendenze Sostenibilità project represents now both an invitation and a challenge to creative talents to explore new and more sustainable solutions and materials without relenting on quality, beauty, style, and originality.
Tendenze & sostenibilità in figures
In this edition too, the samples of fabrics and accessories selected for the MU Tendenze Sostenibilità area and meeting the criteria set by the Milano Unica Technical Committee totaled nearly 3,000, submitted by 359 exhibitors.
Samples and displays by stated sustainability
These numbers are now steadily very high testifying to the strong interest and relevance of the project’s core concept. The principles of chemical safety in the supply chain along with the principles of circular economy are now incorporated in the majority of the samples submitted.
84% of the samples on display, selected by the Sustainability Technical Committee, are manufactured with processes that comply with the main certifications, standards, and protocols regarding the absence of chemicals that are harmful to humans and the environment. These samples feature the "Chemical Safety" label.
89% of the samples (i.e. an even higher percentage) were produced in accordance with the principles of circular economy, such as recycling of process water, use of materials from recycling, or recycling from production waste. In many other cases, 38% of the total was made from a single fiber to make recyclability easier. The attention to reducing the exploitation of the planet's limited natural resources has become a key factor in exhibitors' sustainability strategies. These samples feature the "Circular Economy" label.
Certifications requiring mandatory audits regarding compliance with international conventions on workers' rights and human rights along the supply chain, in manufacturing, or in the production of raw materials through farming are increasing their share with 81% of exhibitors presenting certified samples. These samples feature the "Social Justice" label and make up 64% of the total.
More than half of the exhibitors (55%) presented samples with characteristics enabling reduced greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, thus contributing to combating climate change. These samples guarantee lower emissions because they are made of materials that replace fibers originating from fossil sources, or are Made in Europe. Therefore, when used by European textile manufacturers, emissions from transportation are reduced. Similarly, the samples on display are produced in factories relying on renewable energy or by companies with CO2 offsetting plans. These samples feature the "Climate Action" label.
Major fashion brands are increasingly paying attention to protecting biodiversity and, in the most advanced cases, taking care of its restoration and improvement through regenerative farming methods and the welfare of the animals from which fibers are harvested. Again, more than half (60%) of exhibitors presented samples in line with this vision. It is undoubtedly true that the use of organically grown materials is a well-established practice. However, these materials are not yet extensively used and the available regenerative farming certifications are just a few. As a result, the number of samples submitted by the exhibitors in this segment is still limited. 32% of the samples feature the "Biodiversity Conservation" label.
Regarding company sustainability, more than 100 exhibitors have a corporate sustainability management system in place. Conversely, product environmental footprint (PEF) declarations based on EU criteria still need to be promoted. This reflects the difficulty in applying this methodology in the textile industry.
Standards, protocols and certifications
Sustainability certifications, standards, and protocols are divided based on the relevant scope of application, depending on whether they relate to the individual sample or the company's entire business.
The most prevalent product standards and labels (Figure 3) featured by the submitted samples refer to chemical safety and recycling. 53% of the samples are Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified and 35% are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified, plus the RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certification regarding the use of materials from recycling, making for 3% of the total. The certifications of materials sourced from organic farming are as follows: 17% GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), 5% OCS (Organic Content Standard); and 15% FSC (Forest Stewardship Council). With percentages less than 10%: RWS (Responsible Wool Standard), BC (Better Cotton), Bluesign, Biobased ISCC Plus, and others involving less than 1% of the total samples.
It is worth mentioning that many of the certifications mentioned have adopted a multi-criteria approach in recent years, adding also broader requirements (e.g. respect for workers' rights and chemical safety) to the main scope (i.e. chemicals, recycling, organic, forest management, etc.).
The company-wide standards and labels most widely used by the 359 exhibitors who submitted samples for the Tendenze Sostenibilità area are illustrated in Figure 4. In this edition too, compliance with the ZDHC protocol comes in first (21% of exhibitors) followed by ISO 14001 (17%), Oeko-Tex STeP (13%) and the Chamber of Fashion/SMI Chemistry Guidelines (11%). Just under 10% is the 4sustainability protocol and with smaller shares SA 8000, ISO 45001, and ISO 50001. Lastly, Tessile & Salute, For Textile, TF Traceability&Fashion, EMAS, and B Corp.
